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Mistel 4 Me 262 A1/A2
in 1/18 scale
Author Th. Schrecke 21.03.2007
All modell pictures copyright  48Special Models/Thorsten Schrecke 2007-2010

Pre- Notice

This is an making of report from a personal point of view, which is by now completed.

All pictures and text shown here are owned and protected by copyrights of the author Thorsten Schrecke/48Special Models and others. Any use, also in particular, without written permission by the owner of the rights is prohibited.

This model was built by use of kits manufactured by Admiral Toys, which had been available in our webshop earlied. The trolly is a own construction and not available as a kit!

Index

Pre-Work

Pre work on this model is quite simple, due to the fact I already did it for the 1/48 scale kit. Only the precise enlarging of the plans to meet the right scale, was necessary, to prevent incorrect measures. By help of modern computers it is no problem to scale the plans to the fitting size and print it onto paper, but only in parts, due to the papersize. Because of the papersize puzzeling starts after that, to bring together the parts and fix them with tape permanent.

After quite a while you get an construction plan indeed in 1/18 scale. First you notice the 4mm wide lines in the plan and the masureing problems that will occure from them. Like always when enlarging from a smaller original everithing gets bigger even the lines! This is why the complete plan needs to be checked and measures need to be established newly. The size and thickness of parts need to be calculated new and be compared with the original.

After having finished this I realised that it would take me much longer than I thought to make this model. There are no pre-produced parts at all anything needs to be manufactured by hand! Also some minor questions arrise like "what material do I make this from?" or "What forces need this thing to take?'

The last question is answered easily, because the weight of the Me 262 model is printed on the box they come in and is 2.5kg each. No lightweight aircraft indeed and not to be compared to any usual plastic kit. Two of them make 5kg without modifications! Useing plastic sheets won't get you fare here. This asks for a more realistic construction.

After thinking about the problem for a while I decided, for structural reasons, to design the trolly body from plywood and the main axle from aluminum. The main wheel mout was designed useing both materials. But how about the wheels ?

Making rubber tires myself was much too much work. Making wooden or Aluminum wheels also. I thought about it and went to my favourite RC-model store around the corner and looked for fitting aircraft wheels. There were some that had the exact size I needed! This fact also proofed my scale calculations, too!

Now all necessarities for the construction had been checked and I could start building the model.

The Me 262 model by Admiral Toys

The Me 262 models by Admiral Toys are fine made replicas of the original. You have to accept some minor changes, due to the fact the 1/18 scale models have to meet some structural strength facts a regular palstic kit never has to face. Also the fact they are designed as toys, that have to meet special strenght parameters, needs to be remembered here.

All the bolt counters will shake heads about this, but nobody stops them in making all the changes they think are needed. After that you may not touch the model at all, because it will fall apart, but who cares, except me?

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Copyright Admiral Toys 2006
The Me-262 A1 from Novotny as offert by Admiral Toys.

The paint of the original model is obsolete which needs no explaination. But it is still smart to protect the markings
with tape from being sanded. They might be needed later eventually.

The guidance aircraft is keept mostly the way it comes from the box. The necessary conversions on the bomb Me 262 are work enough. The cockpit has to be erased, landingear also and the nose section needs to be modified too. Also the radio equipment and all the wire antennas will go.
This may generate some spare parts when done properly, which may be usefull later on. So take your time.


Me 262 destruction

All who get wet eyes now may been told that the models used here are slightly demaged at all and wouldn't be on sale therefore anyhow. Now they serve a higher purpose!

To convert the Me 262 first the whole model needs to be taken apart into its bits. That is not quite as simple as many may assume.
The Admiral Toys model is glued and screwed too. So it may happen that after all screws have been taken off nothing may happen. Now the right touch is asked for to get parts apart. The pictures below show the disassembled model and its inner structure. An important information source for anybody how want to do the same, because it shows  how to make it. After disassembling it you get a large plastic kit.

The wings don't need to be modified at all, except for the landingear which can be removed (at the bomb only). The landingear bays will be bolted over with a fareing of "metal sheet", here a piece of plastic card, which will be cut to fit an glued in place. As a template you may use the landingear covers that have been removed before.


Inside the fuselage many more things need to be converted and removed, which makes a careful disassembling necessary. All screws are covered with plastic caps and sometimes also secured with a drop of cement. There are several ways to remove them.
Most simple is to drill a small hole to them and screw another screw through it. This will lift the cap. At the fuselage the screws are lowered deeper inside, so there will be no way for screwing and lifting. Here the screw will be screwed into the cap and removes it by pulling it outward or moving it from side to side. So the model needs to be covered with putty at many placed later on at all, the caps can be replaced or simply filled up with putty.

After disassembling all parts, they need to be checked for sink holes and edges. This is the chance to get rid of them. All glueing edges should be sanded and remains of cement should be removed carefully.

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The wings need to be taken apart with care. Check for screws and cemented bolts carefully first!

First unscrew all screws you can reach.
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The landingear will be disassambled and taken out. First unscrew it completly and then cut out a section from the landingear box to remove the landingear safely.
The engine gondolas are screwed to the wing from the inside!
First the gondola has to be disassembled and after that it can be removed from the wing. Additionaly there is a plug in connection.
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The parts of the engine gondola. All parts should be cleaned after beeing removed. The jet parts are only put in, not cemented, so they can be removed without damage.
Inside view of the engine compartment. When disassembling first remove the endparts of the jet intake and exhaust. Then the lower half can be taken off. This part is cemented very good so take care. Use careful dosed force to loosen the part without breaking it.
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Through the three holes in the top section the gondola is screwed to the wing. These screws can only be removed after the lower half is removed first!
Very tricky installed is the balast weight in the nose section.
It is u-shaped and sits up on the front landingear compartment and tightens it together. It also is glued in place with a contact rummer cement!
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It can be removed quite easy with the help of a screwdriver.
Only after that the fuselage halfs can be seperated!
The landingear compartment sides are screwed to the fuselage with two little screws, too. These need to be removed too. After that the landingear box can be sealed easier from the outside.
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The balast should be put back in place later on again.
The taken apart fuselage parts. The tail part is hooked in only. That's helpful for later on work.
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The left over parts that have been removed form the bomb aircraft. Keep them. You never know when they are needed for replacements.



Conversion of the Me 262 into the bomb

The Me 262 bomb has to be modified in some ways. It never had had any cockpit or landingear and almost all not needed equipment was removed from its fuselage. I am useing this opportunity to get rid of some minor problems and mistakes, like the incorrect turnpoints of the hinges of the stabilizer rudder and elevators.


Conversion of the stabilizer and elevators


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The stabilizer is a seperate section of the fuselage (almost like the original). Unfortunetely the hinge angles of the rudder are far off from the original.
To correct this the parts were disassembled first.
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The stabilizer and rudder are to thick and needed to be sanded down until they fit perfect.
After that the lower hinge is removed. The upper hinge is kept because it is the rudder mass and needs to be in place!
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From 2mm plastic sheet two new hinges are made and put on an 2mm steel wire axis.
The not needed gap in the stabilizer is filled with 6mm PS sheet and superglue. Where the new hinges are placed later on slots are cut with a saw.
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After cementing the rudder fin halfs together again, the hinges at the stabilizer are fit in and cemented in place too.
A close up look at the new stabilizer hinge. Gaps are filled with thick superglue and sanded to fit.
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The completed new stabilizer. Clear to be seen the closer fit and new turn point.
The new rudder angle meets the original now and is max. 15°-20° from the centerline.
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The elevators also have wrong turn points, too. A simple change can solve this problem easy.
The corrected elevator on the final model.


Conversion of the fuselage

The Me 262 bomb was a dangerous weapon and a skill for engineers and modellers as well. In our case things get easy by simply filling the holes and gaps in the nose section with putty.  This means filling and egalising the weapons openings with putty to get a smooth and even surface. Only the section gaps should be kept. The balast that was removed should be put in again beforehand too, because the lack of weight will let the model sit on its tail afterwards. The weapons bay hatches are take off and the bulges on it are sanded even with the surface. After that they are put back in and glued in place tightly. Its helpful to glue a plastic sheet against the inside to strengthen it, too.

The war heads that would have been placed on the Mistel 4 were varying. One version would have consisted of liquid explosive, which asks for a kind of tank. Another was planned as a construction of put together explosives blocks that made up the nose section and was connected to the fuselage. This explosives block should have been only covered with paper and had had no metal sheet covers! The third version would have been a mixture of both. This meant a block of explosives in the nose section and a tank of liquid explosives placed inside the fuselage (additional or instad of fueltanks) or reverse a tank of
liquid explosives in the nose section and blocks of explosives place all over the fuselage.

We start taking off the canopy careful, because it can be reused. Also the cockpit. The hunch behind the hood is cut off with a cutter or saw carefully. Additional bulkheads made from 2mm palstic sheet are cut out and put inside the fuselage. Use the cockpit front and back as a pattern. These parts are glued to the struts where the cockpit was placed before. Inbetween the bulkheads some foam blocks are glued to support them and fill up the space inbetween. Between the fuselage and the foamblocks a 3mm gap should be left open. Here resin will be filled in later to make the new fuselage hull.

To marke the centerline on the top a strip of styrene is cemented in. It marks the new shape of the fuselage. By sanding down the foam the new fuselage shape is made. To strenghten the new hull part a piece of selfadhesive glassfibre tape (used for drywalls) is put on. At the front and backend a cardboard bulkhead is glued in palce and sealed. It will prevent the resin to flow through the whole fuselage, when filled in.

From the outside a layer of waxpaper
following the fuselage shape is applied and taped . This layer needs to be watertight sealed, so no resin can flow out! For stabilising it a layer of thin cardboard is applied too. The fuselage is now placed even on a rack and the resin can be filled in slowly. It fills up the gap and makes a new hull.

The front landingear box is sealed with tape and cast with resin then,
too. Because the shape is round the material needs to come up higher. After the resin has set, but hardened completely (can be recognized by when it gets warm) the tape will be removed and the wax like material cut roughly to shape with a cutter or knife. This saves a lot of time and energy sanding lots of material down!
 
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The weapons bay doors, first remove, then sand down the hunches.
The hole on the inside is filled up with superglue, to prevent sanding trough.
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The weapons cover is "put in place" only. The guns holes are filled with epoxy putty, the gaps with superglue. After that they are sanded even.
The inside of the weapons cover. The light spots on the left have been arresting pins that broke off because they were glued tight. They are not important for placing the part in again, because it will be cemented in place in complete!
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With the help of a special plastic cutter the cockpit bulge is cut out along the graved line and taken off.
The ammo ejection gaps and the openingbulge are filled with epoxy putty and sanded to fit.
Sand the surface fist to make the putty stick better!
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The weapons bay covers will be cemented completely to the hull. Beforehand the balast weights are put in place again and glued with 5min. epoxy glue. Then the whole fuselage will be glued and screwed together again.
All engraved lines and gaps in the nose section are filled with superglue and sanded even then.
The nose (as well as the whole aircraft) didn't have any seams and gaps at all! The warhead nose section was a formed explosives block with a paper cover and therefore absolutely plain.
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Some additonal bulkheads are made and put in place. As a pattern the front and back end of the cockpit section is used.
Blocks cut from PUR foam are put inbetween the bulkheads then.
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The fuselage shape is represented by a cemented in plastic strut. It supports the bulkheads and is a spacer to the foam blocks.
Before and after the cockpit area a cardboard bulkhead is placed.
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On top of the bulkheads construction a layer of self adhesive glass fibre tape is sticked and cemented additional as well as tackered to the foam. This layer will support the resin.
Then all is covered with a layer of waxpaper an cardboard. The better it fits the better it works!
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In the space inbetween the resin is filled in. Fill up from one side only to let the air escape completely!
The front landingear box is filled with resin too. This makes shaping the bulged surface easier and faster.
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Good to be seen here, the front cardboard bulkhead preventing resin from flowing into the fuselage.
The wax like consistence of half dried resin makes shaping it easy. Use a cutter to shape it roughly
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The new fuselage section after taking the cover off. Not all areas have had been sealed perfect. The missing material will be filled in with polyester putty and sanded even then.
Making the support struts was helped by a lucky coincidence, in shape of an old umbrella. He supported me with the needed forkheads for the struts. They were modyfied and glued into 4mm brass tubes.
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The main struts of the guidance aircraft are screwed into a 4mm bearing which was cemented into the wing
The connector plate was cut from plastic sheet and cemented to the wing too. The bolts are made from 1mm nails.
The front colapsing strut on the bomb.
For improvised connection 1mm nails were used, which can be taken off easy and fast.
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The main struts on the lower side of the bomb are more complicated to measure out. The comecting principel is the same as on the guidance aircraft.
The main struts on the lower side of the guidance aircraft.
The red balls are 6mm wooden perls, drilled wider and glued to the strut.
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The aft strut is cemented to the guidance aircraft. The right distance is of importance her, so both planes stay parallel to each other!
First wedding of all parts. Although many details are still missing the models impressing look can be seen.
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The final aft strut was cemented to the guidance aircraft. Planned was a 3mm screw bearing which couldn't be realised due to time pressure. It would have been better!
The main strut between both aircraft. The struts need to be screwed to the guidance aircraft first and then to be bolted to the bomb!
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The wireing is taped to the strut and put in place loose.
The upper main strut with balljoint. The diagonal strut was connected with a M1,2 screw.
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Backview. The colapsing struts on the wings are bolted on both ends.
Total view on the struts-"forrest". The frontside colapsing strut is also bolted on both ends.
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The black wire is the parachute opening system.

Detail view of the lower main struts. The bolts are temporary and will be replaced with minature screws.

The support struts design

The support struts on both aircraft are the most delicate part of the model construction. The principel behind it is relativly simple but clever. The lower aircraft is positioned to the trolley in three points. One colapsing strut in the front an two main struts under the center wing. Their exact position result from the center of gravity. The front strut is positioned where the landingear was, because here is a forces absorbing point of construction! It represents the front landinggear some how. The main resting points result from the construction of the Me 262. The wing has the
middle beam which was only used by Messerschmitt aircraft at that time. This beam is located in the center of wight of the aircraft! Therefore it is the only fixing point possible, which can carry the weight of both aircraft at all. The connectors are known by size and making, because they were used on any other Mistel aircraft. So they contained a explosive seperation bolt, it can be assumed there where not many variations of it.

Therefore the main connecting point on both aircraft sits at the same point. On the bombe the main struts to the guidance aircraft were suported by a diagonal strut. Another diagonal strut between the left and right main strut is not necessary, because they shape a tapez and support themselfs this way. This way a sturdy connection over three points is possible.

To save struts weight and make seperation of both aircraft as aerodynamic and save as possible the guidance aircraft was connected to the bomb at the rear by a little colapsing strut with explosive bolt only. On this special point there are no details know, as well as no pictures available. All existing models use a prinzipel I invented. The colapsing strut has the shape of a turned over questionmark.  The explosive bolt is located in the upper part. The lower part is placed horizontal through the stabilizer of the bomb. The twisting point is located at the highest possible place on the stabilizer which can take any forces.

The wings need to be connected by colapsing struts to prevent vibrations and to transport weight on a larger surface. They have to take less forces and were fitted with simple colapsing struts. The mounting point for them is the beam of the main engine hold. The strut is errected vertical and connected with a t-shaped plate to the lower engine compartment hull of the guidance aircraft.

On the trolley are also colapsing struts on each side. These are connected to the main axle and are put into an opening in the lower wing. This opening is located on any Me 262 and is used regularly for jacking up the aircraft when landingear maintanence was made! Assumingly not even an explosive bolt was needed here for separation.  But a level adjusting would have been installed to adjust the strut to the aircraft.

When making the struts and especially the forkheads on them, an lucky incedent in the shape of a broken umbrella helped me. I had had disassembled it, due to enviorment friendly recycling and found the the struts of the umbrella had have the right size and shape for the needed forkheads. Only the U-shaped profile bothered me. The solution was as simple as clever. Instead of making each forkhead at the laith for days, I took all struts from the umbrella without damageing them. The squeezed ends were sanded down on the bent side, so they seperate. After that they were heated up to get weak. Then they were bent to shape and rounded by useing a steel wire. This has to be made in steps with severals diameters. In the end a perfect forkhead is shaped which fits to a 4mm brass tube perfect. It only needs to be cemented in with epoxy glue, that's it.

The lower main strut is made from two V-shaped tubes and a M4 screw strut. The screw strut is bent in the right angle first and cut to fit in 2/3 of the length of the frontside tube. Both tubes are sanded to fit to the angle on the upper end.  The off standing screw strut was left longer than necessary to be cut to fit later on. All parts are cleaned from grease and dirt now and cemented together in shape with epoxy glue. Therefore they are adjusted correctly on a palstic sheet, whick serves as a pattern. The epoxy will not stick to the plastic and can be removed easy after hardening completely. By useing a cutterknife to slide between plastic sheet and part, the part can be seperated without forceing it to hard in one point. The forkheads will be cemented after a test fit of all parts, to have adjusting space left.

The upper main struts are made similar. Only difference is the hinge needed for the diagonal strut. This is again made of a part of the umbrellar. This time a center piece of the umbrellas struts. Into the strut a slot is cut with the help of the minitool cuttingblade. Her the prepared hinge part is inserted. It fits to the slot without falling out. Then a bent screw strut is cemented into the tube, holding the hinge in place now. All is cemented with epoxy glue again and will last for ever then.

The ball joint is made from a wooden perl, which was drilled out, by hand, to a 4mm diameter. It will be put onto the screw strut after a nut was placed onto it beforehand too. All will be cemented in place too.

How stong these simple connections are shows after first assembly. When lifting the whole constuction by the guidance aircraft and shaking it slightly neither the bomb nore the trolley shake at all! Also you feel the enormous weight of the model for the first time. It is 6kg by now! Also you will notice that the center of gravity lies on the main axis and a slight touch on the tail lifts the frontwheel of the trolley. This means enough weight in both aircraft nose sections is necessary!

For testfitting I bolted the construction together with 1mm nails. These have to be replaced with screws later on.


Conversion of the wings and engines

The conversion of the wings consist of two steps. First covering all wheel wells and landingear boxes with plastic sheet. Second strenghtening the structur of the wing itself.

Because both aircraft sit on each other like a sandwhich and are connected by struts, this is not realy necessary from a static viewpoint. But in prevention and from knowing the qualities of plastics, I decided to put in a support, because it can not excluded that the model will bend sooner or later.
Because the wings were apart at all and putting in an aluminum tube as a mainbeam isn't much work at all, it is of use to practice such a conversion.
The support beam is a 8mm aluminum tube, which is bent in the middle, so the angle meets the wingform easy. At both ends the tube is flatened to fit in the wingtips better. Both sides are approx. 25cm long and fit right inbetween the connecting pins inside the wing. In some areas sanding off uneven parts is necessary, to make the tube fit even into the whole wing. At the main landingear box the walls need to be erased a bit to make the tube fit in. When it fits to the wing it will be fixed with clamps and glued with 5min. epoxy glue to the wing. The glueing surface should be sanded beforehand to make the glue stick better!
 

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The position of the aluminum tube when cemented in.

The gap at he landingear box was routed. The 5min. Epoxy connects both parts for ever.
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The main landinggear box was faired over with a 1.5mm plastic sheet, which was cut to shape and cemeted in.
On the original probably a simple metal sheet or plywood was bolted to it.
The jet engine intakes in correct paint sheme. The color is chrome from a spraycan. Quite convincing and simple!
What's still missing here is detail work and weathering.

The taken apart engines consist of just a few parts, intake, jets exhaust, lower cover, front cover and exhaust cover.
The intake is spray painted chrome by use of a paint can and after that clear coated with JPS clear paint (the JPS Color paint doesn't destroy the chrome effect!) at least it was weathered with a oilpaint wash. All TL-engines were drenched in oil, this is why they have to have a oily wash. The exhaust is painted with burnt iron polishing paint. This paint has to be polished after drying by use of a soft brush or kitchen towel. The effect is astonishing. After that spraypaint with clear for protection again.
The intakes and exhaust covers will be painted too. The intake domes are made of aluminum and were connected to the engine. They were exchanged together with the engine! This is why most of them came unpainted or only primed with RLM 76. Inside they were also bare aluminum, this called for an aluminum polish finish too.
Into the cover of the intake dome the Riedel-Starter ring was put in too. Therefore the less to small hole needed to be drilled wider. The starter rings have to be placed in horizontal!
After priming the hole aircraft and painting the engine parts they can be assembled again.

After that the main connecting points on both aircraft need to be settled. But this will happen after the trolley is completed first.

Making of the trolley

The trolley consists of a boxframe and an mainaxle, like to be seen on the other Mistel 4 page. There are also the front wheel section and the rato rocket.

I started with the box frame, because it is made fast and quite simple. Fotocopies of the parts were sticked to a plywood sheet and cut out on the band saw. Onto the inside of the upper and lower frame plate a smaller plate was cemented to serve as a conneting point for the side panels. The mount for the frontwheel was made of a piece of massiv multiplex wood, which was cemented to the upper panel, after the box frame was cemented together.
For cementing a thickened epoxy resin was used, as usually used in RC aircraft designing. This has a setting time of almost 60 minutes and needs 24 hours to harden completly. You may use 5min. epoxy as well, but the time for assembling will get short
eventually.

Epoxy glues have some edvantages. First they stick much better than white glue. They add stability to the parts and you may simulate welding seams too!
Therefore you put the thickened glue to a polybag and cut of one corner as wide as you want your seam to be. You may also use a suringe too. Then you go along the edge of the part adding a thin line of epoxy to it. You can add the glue very exactly and also get the structure of a welding seam.

The mount for the front wheel was made from a piece of multiplex wood which was cut to almost fit the part and cemented in place then. After hardening it will be sanded to fit on the belt sander.

In the box frame rear the backing plate needs to be installed now. Beforehand to the areas were holes will be drilled later and screws may sit little plywood plates were added to give the right thickness and hold.

For the rato-mount a 4mm iron wire was bent to fit. Here the bending points need to be heated by a torch to prevent breaking. The support strut going between both frames was screwed to the framepieces. For this holes were drilled at the right points. They also were cleaned from oil/grease to fill up the seams with thin superglue afterwards. Also the screw heads were sanded to fit the shape of the frame. In the end the screws vanish completely.



The axle

To make the main axle a laith is necessary. Also I had made my self clear how the construction needs to function. Thereby I found out that I will be much closer to the original than I thought in the beginning. Although the Mistel 4 never was built, there are only a few ways its design could be realised. Seen from a technical point of view this meant the function must work to find the right way of construction. Today this is called reverse engineering.

I started with the mount for the main axles, which is connected to the box frame end. Seen simple, this is just a tube. In the original a steel tube with about 1mm wall thickness at all probably. Here it is an
machined aluminum tube with a centerhole of 14mm width. Drilling this hole bought me to the limits of the capacities of my small laith. A 14mm drill isn't only tick it is also long and hardly fitted to the machinery.

Fortunately I could manage to mount the part and the drill to the laith, but no inch more! This was how an aluminum tube was made, the main axle will fit in perfect later on.

The main axle was made as well as the 48scale version, in two parts.  First because it was to large for the laith and second because it could not be fitted to the tube later on. At the inner end the parts are made tight fitting so they slight smooth to the tube. The inside ends have a thread and nut mount so they can be connected by screwing them together. This is made a little shorter than the tube it sits in, so it can be tightened by turning. The big advantage is you don't see the kind of connection from outside and no additonal secureing is necessary. Also the whole construction can be dissasambled in seconds by hand.


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The trolley without primer. Back view of the trolley without rato rocket and parachute box.
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This picture shows the geometry of the trolley perfect.
The primed trolley with added rato rocket and fittings.


The main axle and wheel

On each side of the axle a double wheel "runner" frame is mounted. These runners run free on the axle. They can be turned around the whole axle. The rear wheel is mounted to a swing too, which is held by a shock absorber. This makes sense and helps keeping distance to the ground. On the original these shock absorbers could be adjusted to the total weight of the several mistel versions. On the model making them was a challange.

I had to develope the complete design and function myself, because I didn't want to install a machined mock up piece. I needed shock absorbers in 1/18 scale that worked and fitted to the design also! You can't buy them in the hobby store around the corner, so I had to make them.

The prinziple is simple. A rod goes to a spring and compresses it in its tube when a force applies. Constructing this in real and four times wasn't that simple. First you need the fitting springs. Where can you get them from? Quite easy from a ball pen! The force adjustment works by cutting the spring to fit.

After that the shockabsorber housing is made on the laith. And how are they fixed to the trolley? Well when buying the wheels I also got some forkheads and some screw in flanges. The flanges consist of a M4 screw bolt and an eye on one end. These can be screwed to the absorber tube and make the upper end of the shockabsorber. The lower end is an aluminum rod with a M3 thread on which a cut to fit forkhead is screwed on. The rest is tiny work which took me two complete Sundays at the laith. Ready are the shock absorbers!

The swings were cut from 3mm aluminum sheet material and sanded at the belt sander. All parts were sticked togeter with doublesided tape and sanded at once as well as drilled. This helps drilling all holes exactly to the same spot and getting the same shape.
The opposite part was made from three parts cut out of plywood. These also were sticked together temporarily with tape and drilled, cut and sanded to fit as well. After that the parts neded to be seperated again, which wasn't that easy with wood than it was with aluminium. The middle piece was cut out then to give way for the absobers and swings. After that the parts were cemented together again with epoxy glue. After setting all parts were finally sanded and test fitted. After that they were primed with as fast sanding primer for wood, which closes the surface and hardens it too. This lets the parts become sanded smooth and makes them fit exactly.


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The testfitted swings and shock absorbers.
For keeping the distance between both frame parts an
aluminum tube was inserted.
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The final configuration with the wing support struts.
The positioning can be seen good here in the side view.
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The absorbers have been fixed in place with 1.2mm screws


Wheel axles and deviders

The wheels axles are made from M4 thread rods. By help of nuts or nut tubes they are fixed to the swings and frames. The wheels run free inbetween them. The axles will be later cemented to one side of the wheel mount, to prevent loosening when working.

To keep the distance between both wheel frames and to install the wing support strut later on, a 22mm wide spacer tube was made, which is placed loose inbetween the wheelframes onto the main axle. For secureing the wheel frames onto the main axle an end plate with a screw bolt was made and screwed on. These prevent the wheel frames from falling off the axle without blocking them.

All together constructing the main axle and wheel mount was quite a challange. Without a precison laith it would be impossible to make. The more satisfying it is to see the whole thing work like the original and show a realistic effect.

The wing support struts are made from a plywood sheet which was cut and sanded to fit. On the outside edges a 2mm polystyrene strip was glued on, which simulates the profil. Who has got time and machinery may rout this piece from a aluminum sheet as well too. The other way is much faster. After sanding and fitting a 3mm hole is drilled into the top end. Here a thread rod of 1cm length is cemented in first and then first a nut and following a 5-7mm long tube piece will be screwed onto it. The tube piece works as a spacer and simulates also the explosive bolt placed here. After all struts are adjusted finally it can be fixed in place with a drop of superglue.

Front wheel mount

The front wheel mount was related to finding the fitting wheel first! After that the design could be made. Obviously there are differences to the original wheels. But so I have had only the choise between buying one or makuing it myself, buying was the more easy way and cheaper too. For checking the fit the bought wheel would be good enough at all. If it wouldn't fit a selfmade wheel was still an option.

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Front wheel mounting with absorber. The final front wheel mount.
Only the rim needs to be changed!

The from wheel mount was made from several pieces and consists mostly of aluminum. From a block of aluminum the upper part was routed. To its sides the axle mounts were screwed with two screws each, which were
later glued in, filled with putty and egalized.  As an axle a M4 threat rod was used. The holds for the absorber are also made from aluminum sheet and screwed to the side parts from the inside with one screw on each side. The absorber this time ia a mock up without function. It is screwed to the upper part by a thread. On the original it makes the front wheel run straight and prevents vibrations (similar to the wheels of a shopping cart going fast) as soon as the trolley takes on speed.

The adjusting wheel on top is made from a piece from a disposal zipper, which regulates the flames hight usually. It fits perfectly on the absorber to simulate the control wheel. I only needed to drill an M3 thread to it so I can screw it to the absorber and secure it with a drop of superglue.

Into the upper block part a 6mm hole was drilled, to mount it to the trolleys box frame. Also a 6mm hole was drilled to the box frame.  I also made a two parted screw bolt, which fits through both holes and is secured from below. This makes the wheel turn free without loosening the screw. On the original the design may have looked different, but it sure worked the same way. There may be assumed that a ball bareing was installed inbetween trolley and wheel well. How the construction may have looked like is unknown. For sure is only it has to take large weights (about 17t) and forces und would have been a big dimensioned part.

Rato rocket (Starthilferakete) Walther HWK 109-501

The so called Starthilferakete of typ Walther
HWK 109-501 is an important part of the whole Mistel design. Without it the Mistel wouldn't lift up at all! The HWK 109-501 had had 1500kp of trust for about 30 sec.. It also shortened the needed runway distance a lot!

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Walther HWK 109-501 with 30 sec. working duration.
(Source: "Die deutschen Raketenflugzeuge 1935-45", Motorbuch Verlag)
Cut away drawing of Walther HWK 109-501
(Source: "Die deutschen Raketenflugzeuge 1935-45", Motorbuch Verlag)

The
Walther HWK 109-501 rato rocket is much bigger than all other known German ratos, as they have been used for example on the Ar234B (HWK 109-500). Attached to the rato usually was a parachute pack for recovery, which brought back the rato after use savely. It is unknown if the parachute pack was installed to the rato here too. But it can be assumed that only complete ratos were attached.

This part is another challange , because it has to be made from scratch in complete. In 1/18 scale it also shows a lot more detail as in smaller scales. The basic shape was machined on the laith again, from a piece of resin cast into a tube shape. It had to be done in two parts, because of the size and the shape. This gives the chance to machine it hollow inside, to reduce weight a bit.

 
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The rato rocket was machined from a resin cast block and the bolts simulated by 1mm nails added to the surface.
Useing aluminum tape, as usually used for roof insulation, to give the surface the realistic metal finish.
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On the original too the bolts didn't sit in a perfect row all times!
Applying the aluminum tape takes time and practice, but it rewards with an astonishing metal look!
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The eyes are bent from 0.8mm brass wire and are attached in a slope to the parachute pack.
Made from 1mm brass wire are the hooks,
 that are put in place her for testing.
The hooks hold the parachute pack like the original only at the eyes!
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The completed recovery parachute pack is only hooked to the rato here, like the original too! It can be removed any time, because the rato itself is just hooked in its cradle too.
One of the hooks the parachute pack is fixed with. It hooks to the eye on the pack and rests with the other end to a hole in the rato.

The part was made first from a resin cast rough material. I used a standard resin I use in my model kit production too, adding some filling material. This makes the resin easy to machine and also prevents overheating the massive block while setting.
I cast the material to an ordinary  0,2l polystyrene drinking cup and let it set. The cup can be peeled off then and ready is the rough piece. Due to the cups shape the part can be placed in the laíth easy and save.

Now the piece needs to get an even shape to make it run smooth. Then it was machined to fit the original shape. So both ends are conic I had to make it in two seperate parts, which were cemented together with superglue later on.

By the help of a marker I marked the rivett lines. Engravings and slots were added too while machining. For each rivet a hole was drilled by hand! This makes 88 holes per ring on the large diameter. Several hundred 1mm nails were nailed in and secured with superglue. It drove me crazy!

The exhaust nozzle also was routed conic, like the original. The tankhood and armatures also and the sheet edges running vertical were engraved by hand.

The fun part came later on. By accident (I insulated my attic) I found a aluminum foilage tape, which is normaly used to seal rock wool insulation. This very fine tape sticks like hell to anything and can't be torn of in one piece anymore. Its main advantage is it is made from aluminum foil. Some modeller may know something similar called Bare Metal Foil. The main difference is it is much cheaper. I got a roll in a discounter for 1,79Euro. It has 15m of tape and will last for a lot more models too. When working with this tape I had the idea to test it on the rato rocket body. It worked excellent.

The resin part was first cleaned from oil and the foil cut to fitting stripes. When applying the tape it is important to do it step by step and useing the right tool for pressing the tape to the surface. Some dentists tools work well and a soft piece of wood too. I used both depending on what worked better in some situations.

It needs a lot of patience to apply the tape and I still got it from drilling the holes and putting in the nails before. But applying the foil gives you back more! The surface instantly gets a perfect metal look. All nailheads morph into rivets and by polishing the surface gets a perfect finish.

For fixing the rato roket to the trolley on the original there where bolts on both sides which were used also for storing on the transportation carrier (see picture above). On the model two screws from a computer rack were used. Usually harddisks are screwed with them to the computer. Here they get a more exciting job. The screw heads are very flat on this kind of screws and they have a machine thread too. So they can be screwed to the holes (without drilling a thread) on the rato rocket side as well as the screw head helps to hook it into the rest on the trolley.

The parachute on the rato is of no use on the trolley, because it is used only for recovery when dropped from an aircraft. Therefore it is not clear if it was installed at all. It is possible that it was simply removed to save weight. It is also possible that the rocket and parachute were a unit in function and needed to be kept togehter to work propper or it was easier to leave it on than removing it simply. I just like it better than the naked rocket, but left open the option to remove it by giving it the same connection by hooks like the original. These can be taken of any time.

The parachute pack is made in several steps from an epoxy putty. First a core piece is sculpted. A flatend sphere about 2/3 of the final size. This was let set. Onto the rato rocket a plastic foil was stripped where the parachute block would be placed later. It served as a seperator. Then the epoxy ball was pressed on to. This gave it the exact fitting shape!
 
Then the detailed surface was sculpted on. Here the belts have been spaced out and instead of them a 1mm deep gap was sculpted. Here real belts were glued on later on, made from a cotton tape. The belts were glued around the lower side too and a ring was attached in before on each end.
These rings are also on the original. They take the hooks that hold the parachute pack in place. The parachute itselve is connected to the ring in the middle of the rato front end. By a rope that is connected to the aircraft the parachute pack is opened and the parachute is ejected by a spring out of the pack. The rato lands on the ground an can be used again. This principle is still used today on Space Shuttle and Ariane 5 Boosters!

Rato mount / parachute box

From a 6mm iron wire I bent both tube frames. Doing this the bending edges need to be heated up several times to prevent breaking. Also after the final shape is reached too. To get tentions out of the material. The suport tubes are cut from iron wire too and filed to fit to the frame by screwing. Who preferes to weld or soulder may do so instead, but the parts can not be taken apart anymore then!
The tube frame needs to be fitted to the trolley now. The upper tube ends will be placed into a hole in the trolleys box frame. The lower ends go to a depression on the axle mount blow and will be screwed to it.
Like all parts they will be test fit first only. To have the chance to remove them always for testfitting other parts and for painting later on!

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The rato is put in place loose only. From a block of resin a mount was routed and screwed and glued to the frame.
Rato and parachute box in place. Missing are the wireing and the parachute rope on both sides of the axle.
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The parachute box in place. It is fixed with epoxy glue. after setting the hinges can be mounted on its lower side. They simulate the way it was fixed on original.
The rato and trolley parachute pack.
They both were sculpted from an epoxy putty and decorated after setting with real straps of cloth.
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The finished parachute box. Good to be seen is the splint, made from wire. This was ejected through a bowdenwire which is installed on top of the box.
The rato in its final position.

Into the trolley tube frame a board is placed now on which the rato nozzle sits. Also another bulkead is cemented into the trolleys box frame end, on which the rato front end rests. As well as a mounting device for the rato is installed to the tube frame where the ratos mounting bolts will rest. This way the rato can be hooked in like the original. The bulkhead at its front end prevents the rato from flipping over (like a firecracker).

Below the rato two support struts are installed to take the parachute box. This box contains the break parachute, which will be ejected automatically after the mistel has left the trolley. This is done with a rope, as usually on all parachutes, which draws a splint from the pack and lets the parachute eject from its box by a pre-tightened spring system. The original principle is as easy as simple too and completely mechanical. It can be done on the model therefore quite well.

The parachute box was cut from a block of resin and sanded to fit. On the backside a 1.5mm thick styrene sheet was glued which overlaps about 1mm on each edge. To this plate the parachute package bag was sculted with epoxy putty. This can be done perfectly with the putty. And by pressing on cloth texture and other structures a realistic surface can be modelled. By use of dental tools and a bit of water all shapes are sculted. As a pattern for copying a picture of the existing AR 234 V1 parachute box is used.
After setting of the epoxy putty three 1mm holes were drilled to each side of the box. Into them some subminiature screws were screwed (like to be seen on the picture). Another hole was drilled into the pack bag, were later on the eye for the splint is added. Around the middle screw a 1mm wire is tied, which goes over to the other side of the pack.

To the other screws on both sides some springs are attached, which are
connected to the sping on the opposite side of the pack. I took real springs from my large collection of kept parts (it is good to keep everything!). These probably come from an old typewriter or any other similar electronic device.
Who has nothing like that, may bend them from copper wire.
Both springs ware tied together with a piece of electrical copper wire. Doing that most simple is to connect the wire to the spring first and measure the needed length. One cut it to length first  and twist the ends to the other spring. To the back of the parachute box two gaps are engraved, where the wire will rest later. Then connect the springs to the screw heads and they will be tightened a little. This also shows the correct way of the construction and how it worked too. In real the springs gave the tention to eject the parachute. As soon as the splint is removed they through out the parachute pack and the parachute can inflate.

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Back view of  Ar 234 trolley of the second version with parachute box.
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Start of an AR234 from its trolley.
Good to be seen is the way the parachute inflates.

Picture source unknown, probably Bundesarchiv.
Painting and finishing

All parts of the trolley will be primed. Therefore they need to be prepared in the usual way. All parts will be taken apart first as far as possible. The metal parts will be cleaned and primed with a special aluminum primer. The wooden parts are sanded fine and spraypainted with a layer of filler from the spray can then, to egalise any uneven surface structures. This will be repeated eventually several times, if necessary.

Take care not to apply any paint to the connecting surfaces, to prevent problems when assembleing again. Cover these areas with masking tape to protect them.

After having dried completely the first layer of paint is applied. Here a layer of black from a spray can. This will be sanded again with 600 grain wetsanding pads and cleaned again afterwards. After that the final RLM 02/1 gray, the color of all prototyps, is applied in the manners of modelling. Ageing and weathering follows after reassembling the trolley.

Notice please, that the trolley is the only part of the Mistel which has been reused several times, although this is a fictional model. Otherwise the bomb was a old or wracked aircraft body which was modyfied, as usually all Mistels were. A warhead was attached that maybe has a different shade of colors and nobody took notice of that too. It is also possible the bomb had had a simple RLM 76 light gray primer color over all, for corrosion protection and simplyfied camoflage.

The guidance aircraft, in opposite, is an often used combat aircraft which was modified for this purpose. Depending on the type, if A1/A2 or U2, this can vary from its paint sheme. A1 and A2 aircraft have been relativly new and in perfect optical condition regarding the colors. Of the U2 aircraft only 2 prototyps existed, the V555 and V484. Of both of them photos are existing and these may be used as a reference here.

The model I made is a A1/A2 version and will be painted in the colors of a late paint sheme, because the Novotny aircraft never was a Mistel aircraft for sure.

The offical Paint Shemes Order for this period were RLM 81 and RLM 82 for the upper surface of the aircraft. The manufacturers delivered all Me 262s in a RLM 76 light gray primer color as a corrosion protection. Onto this a camoflage was added. The order also says that the truth of color in comparison to the sample wasn't controlled at all (which means if belonged to the painter what he thought was right!) which leads to the assumtion, that many aircraft didn't meet the order given, because the right amount of colors were lacking or were mixed with others to get enough paint to do the job. There is also a order in the same order that says that old RLM 70 and RLM71 colors can be replaced by RLM 81 or RLM 82 if left over stock has been used up! This means the combination of these four colors was allowed, so there might have been some strange combinations possible on one aircraft indeed.

Photos of originals show that many aircraft were primed only in RLM 76 and had had added on a meandering in green color onto the fuselage or the standard paint sheme
(upper side RLM76, lower side RLM 81/82 splinter camo)  was added with a veriety of other camoflage patterns. Here can be worked in each case only be reference to photos!

So the Mistel 4 was a project only, the paint shemes are only limited by the offical
Paint Shemes Order and the known facts on painting aircarft during the last days of war. In general any color sheme that fits to the time frame is possible.


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The bomb was painted RLM 76 in complete first and after that meandered with RLM 81. The jet intakes are bare aluminum polishing colors.
The trolley was painted in RLM 02/1, as all prototyps were.
The support struts also.

Pattern for the so called "Balkenkreuz" on the wing top
 (In original size 630mm wide).
The complete markings and insignia were done in
size of the original, depending on the order and then scaled to fit and printed out.
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The "Balkenkreuz" for the fuselage sides
(In original 800mm wide).
The "Balkenkreuz" for the lower wing surface
(In original 800mm wide).
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Cut from a masking tape a spray paint mask was made and spray painted on with an airbrush.
Notice the change of shape caused by the rounded fuselage!
The whole mistel from above. The guidance aircraft is still in the delivered paint sheme (RLM 81/82) and will be repainted later.
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The mistel seen in daylight. The swatikas are removed here, but exist on the model for historical correctness.
The guidance aircraft will get a other paint sheme later, because this doesn't fit to the model at all.

Painting of the guidance aircraft

I couldn't decide which colors to use on the guidance aircraft for a long time. During that time span the new 21st Me262 came out having the camoflage sheme which fits this model perfect. But the model itself doesn't fit to the Admiral Toys model which is differing in detail a lot and doesn't fit together in the Mistel constellation. So I didn't want to start from the beginning, I decided to use an older paint sheme used on the first operational Me 262 A1s. It consists of a RLM 74 darkgreen and RLM 75 mid gray on the topside. So this was a Me 262A1 of the first series no bad idea at all.
After a series of paint tests and checking a nice book on the Me 262, with good color prints on the painsjobs for reference, I came over a color sheme in the book wich was explained as the one with the colors mentioned above, but used instead of RLM 74 dark green as dicscribed RLM 82 green as a top side paint. So I couldn't check at all if this is a misspelling in the text or misprint in color, I decided to follow the printed color, because I simply liked it more. So this isn't in opposite to the offical paint orders given, it is a possible paint sheme and because it was a project only, useing up old paint can be assumed.
 
The resulting paint sheme of the guidance aircraft is as follows:

Primer/ lower side: RLM 76 light gray
top side: RLM 75 mid gray /RLM 83 green splinter camo on wings and clouds on the fuselage

Before painting preparations come first. The construction was less converted. Including the stabilizer and elevators conversions as described above. So this needs not to be explained again. The jet engines were treated as described before too. Only the fuselage wasn't modified, but cemented and the gaps were filled with putty. After that sanding was done and everyting primed.
Here the cockpit and canopy needed to be masked off by tape or taken off completely and the cockpit simply taped over with masking tape.  Now the complete aircraft was primed. After that it was sanded with 600 grade wetsanding paper and cleaned again. Then the lower side was spray painted in RLM 76 light gray. This was applied around the wing edges and on the whole fuselage. After that had dried a splinter pattern in RLM75/82 was applied to the top of the fueselage, which disapears in clouds to the lower areas. The upper wings have been painted in the calssic splinter pattern of the paint order.

As on the bomb before the insignia will be spary painted on then. So these are similar to the ones on the bomb, the masks made already can be reused her. The lost fuel and safty markings weren't added to all aircraft at all. Mostly only on new ones in manufacturers first paint shemes. So they can be missed out.

Beautyshots

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View from the right side.
View from the left side.
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The top aircraft is not finaly painted here!
View from above left.
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Detailview of the rato rocket and break parachute construction.
The rato rocket and its wiring.

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Use without written permission prohibited!

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